Kalmar gets its name from the word "kalm", a collection of stones, something found in large quantities on both the land and waters around Kalmar. It is first mentioned in writings from the beginning of the 13th century. However, archaeological evidence of a city wall, monastery, Church and courthouse from the 12th Century show it was a thriving community.
For some reason, the drive into Kalmar looks a great deal like the same drive into Växjö. The buildings, broad main street and, slowly appearing town are very similar, though once a very different sight.
Once you reach the waterfront, you start to see the history built between the 12-16th century. The population was 2-3000 people, making it one of Sweden's largest towns after Stockholm, though small compared to many European cities. Moreover, its southern and accessible port gave Kalmar strong international links, mainly to Germany, and German was as common to hear on the streets as Swedish.
Sights & Culture
Kalmar Slott
Kalmar Slott is the best-preserved Renaissance castle in the Nordic region. Initially erected during the 13th century, the ring wall and moated location made it one of the most significant defensive fortifications of its time.
Kalmar Slott & Moat
The castle was the site for the signing of the Kalmar Union on 17 June 1397, establishing Denmark, Norway and Sweden, with Eric of Pomerania crowned King.
In 1544, King Gustav I undertook a modernisation plan to improve Sweden's defences. His sons Eric XIV and John III transformed Kalmar Slott into the magnificent renaissance castle we see today.
Kalmar Slott from across the water
In the 16th century as part of the modernisation, the main gate was relocated to the Western Wall. The crest of the house of Vasa was placed above the entrances to demonstrate their ownership. Everything was made by the stonemason Roland Mackle of Öland in 1568.
Secrets of the castle are still being revealed; as recently as 2015, a burial chamber was unearthed north of the Kings Chamber Tower containing ten individuals from the late 15th century. In addition, in 2013, numerous bodies were found in Kalmarsund Park from the battles of 1611.
The dungeon was in use until 1572 and was the prison and namesake for the Prisoners Tower. A manual elevator took them down, and their only access to the outside was the latrine channel that brought air in and sewage out. It is a dark and dismal place.
The Women's Prison is comparatively nicer, though the punishments, illustrated by stark black and white photography on the walls are stranger. For example, arguing women could be bound together. Dunk tanks, whippings and carrying heavy stones were all collective punishments for women who broke the law or social norms.
Illustrations of women's punishments in Kalmar
You will find the Queen's Room, with dresses, jewellery, and information on the queens and princesses who lived in the castle as you explore.
A room dedicated to Gustav I Vasa, who died in 1560, illustrates his successes against the Danes and his campaign of taxation on the churches and confiscation of land from the Catholic Church, the money spent on improving the defences of Sweden, including the modernisation of Kalmar Castle. Gustav, I was a fierce leader and quelled no less than five uprisings during his reign. Due to his ruthless campaigns against the Church, filling the Royal treasury at the expense of Parish Churches, the most significant Scandinavian peasant uprising in history occurred. Lead by Nils Dacke, the revolution was crushed against the walls of Kalmar Castle.
In the 16th Century, Astrology was prevalent, even amongst famous religious figures like Martin Luther. Despite the mysticism, astronomers continued to map the night sky and Nordic astronomer Tycho Brahe discovered a new star in the constellation of Cassiopeia, and astrologers naturally took this as an ominous sign. In addition to the stars, Sweden was mapping the world. The castle has a fantastic map room; with Olaus Magnus, clergyman, diplomat, cartographer and humanist, he was one-time Archbishop in Exile of Sweden due to Gustav I's break with Rome. From Venice, in 1539 he publishes Carta Marina, a map of Scandinavia, the Baltic regions and Britain. It is richly decorated and was a nine-part wood-engraving. Unfortunately, only two copies survive to this day.
On the second floor lies the Queen's suite, with a surprisingly small bed. It is currently a single large room, but it was divided by a wall into two when in use. The ceiling friezes illustrate the divide.
Following the Queens Suite is the Checkered Hall, which served as the Queen's reception room, with beautiful intarsia panelling, containing seventeen types of wood.
In a single tower sits the King's chamber. Built by German masters, it is impressive and cosy compared to many large drafty rooms and has a very masculine decor.
The Golden hall takes its name from the gold leave ceiling, finished in 1576 and with little restoration since. At one time, a door leads to a luxurious summer palace, though that is no longer in existence.
The Grey Hall is more intimate and was renovated by Johan III. The information known about this room comes from the diary of a German traveller who had the honour of standing to watch the royal dinner in this room in 1586.
The Grey Hall
The second floor also houses the Chapel, which is still in use and recently renovated in 1970 by restoring the stencilled patterns on the walls.
Castle Chapel
In the basement are the Hidden Treasures, a small exhibition of items found during archaeological works. The cellar is chill compared to the rest of the castle, making it ideal for storage. In two archways converted to display units, you can see rune-stones and stone carvings.
Rune-stone, part of the Hidden Treasures
A single room would not be enough to cover his accomplishments.
Helmet of King Gustav I Vasa
So King Gustav I Vasa has his exhibit showcasing more about him, including his personalised helmet with hipster moustache.
Klapphuset
The Washhouse is a strange place. A small wooden building standing on stilts on the edge of the water.
Klapphuset
It was built in the early 19th century and is still in use today for washing carpets. Inside, down a short flight of steps, two pools are available with a series of wooden buckets allowing people to wash with the ocean water. Occasional fish swim past.
Stortorget
In the centre of Kalmar, Stortorget is easy to find. A wide-open space with the Cathedral on one side, it occasionally has market stalls.
Kalmar Domkyrka
It was called "Sweden's most beautiful baroque building", it was designed and built by Nicodemus Tessin the Elder, whose son architected Fredrikskyrka in Karlskrona.
Kalmar Domkyrka
It took an incredible 43 years to build and was inaugurated in 1682. It has four corner towers, which are gold plated (eldsurnor) and is a remarkable building in excellent condition.
Union Monument
The monument is a sculpture by artist Roj Friberg in celebration of Kalmar Union's 600th anniversary in 1997. Representative figures for Sweden, Denmark, and Norway can be seen and Margareta and Erik of Pomerania.
Union Monument
Gamla Vattentorn
Gamla Vattentorn
Once the old water tower designed by Hans Hedlund in 1900, it is now converted to 11 modern flats offering unique apartments and remarkable 360 views around Kalmar, including the prison it faces.
Hare at Gamla Vattentorn
In the shadow of the tower, hares can often be found.
Västerport
Once merely the Western Gate to the city of Kalmar, it is now Västerport Relax, a spa and bar using the rooms in the city walls.
Västerport
The gate leads you to a bridge over the water and towards the Kriminalvårdsanstalten.
Kriminalvårdsanstalten Kalmar
Built in 1852, the city prison is one of the oldest prisons in Sweden still in use. Formidable looking, with small windows and barbed wire surrounding it, it is strangely out of place facing the spa, luxury apartments and sitting on a lovely waterfront location.
Kriminalvårdsanstalten
Tripp Trapp Trull
Tripp Trapp Trull
Built in the 17th century, these buildings were home to artisans with small workshops. The name "Tripp Trapp Trull" is a Swedish phrase without a precise English translation and refers to
"three objects or creatures of a similar kind that are in a row in order of magnitude."
There is no formal consensus on whether Tripp or Trull is largest and, therefore, whether the objects should be ascending or descending.
In this case, it is a precise match for the three houses of increasing size next to each other.
Larmtorget
Larmtorget or Noise Square is home to the outdoor stage of Kalmar and is a wide-open space surrounded by bars. Quiet during the Corona period, it would no doubt be a lively place.
Kalmar Nyckel Minnesmärke
A memorial facing the ocean to the sailing ship, Kalmar Nyckel, celebrates ships' voyages to North America.
Kalmar Nyckel Minnesmärke
The monument was erected in 2013, 375 years after the vessels first voyage to North America, carrying Swedish settlers to their new home in the New World.
Gamla Torget
The old Market Square was one of the most significant locations during the middle ages. Not far from the castle entrance, it is a long way out of what is now the city centre. A fire in 1647 destroyed much of Gamla Torget, and the rulers decided to move the city to its current location on Kvarnholmen.
Gamla Torget
Gamla Torget was home to the City Hall and St. Nicolaus Church, one of the largest in Sweden during the middle ages, though only archaeological ruins remain today. Though the oldest buildings are gone, well-preserved 18th and 19th-century houses are still in place along with cobbled streets to explore.
Museums & Galleries
Kalmar Konstmuseum
Kalmar Art Museums is a gloss black building tucked away in Slottets Park. It is a very different style to the traditional buildings around it, including the castle. The collection is excellent, and the staff are incredibly knowledgeable about the acquisitions and happy to share their expertise.
Kalmar Konstmuseum
On the ground floor, spilling out past the stairs is a scarf, a long scarf stretching to the roof and back multiple times. This carefully knitted work called "Madejas contra la violencia sexista (the Ball against gender-related violence)" was started by Basque women and is slowly making the rounds of European Art Museums and is currently five kilometres long. It is a protest against gender violence, intended to become large enough through peoples contributions to wrap around the European Union building in Brussels. The man in reception was knitting his contribution while I arrived.
Kalmar Konstmuseum Exhibits
The second floor is "Rabbit hole", showing the work of Hanna Hansdotter. Mostly working in blown glass, she makes strange organic shapes in vibrant colours. A few wood sculptures scattered around the space give contrast to the glassworks. Working both creatively and with the industrial process, her work is a modern blending of ideas.
On the third floor is The Algerian Novel. Three films, 15, 34 and 45 mins long showing in a small room with couches, the first short film on the largest screen and with speakers, the other two on smaller screens with headphones. Its primary narrative is about a kiosk selling historical photos, sometimes of people excluded from history. A common refrain is, "It was better before." As the movies progress, it moves into interviews on feminism and freedom in Algeria.
The top floor is "Table of content" by Åsa Norberg and Jennie Sundén, which explores the methods and skills of local arts and crafts. It is a form of abstract still life. A set of specific creations, each with their approach and interpretation, fill the space.
The Flux: Plates with patterns from designarkivet.
The Flax: A take on the modern rebellion of story. The mirror fragments make the wall look like see-through rather than showing a reflection, a trick of the eyes.
The Stack: Inspired by Ikea's Lövet, the first flatpack. The Stack is a series of cardboard copies of the Lövat shapes, with prints of other packing material on their surface.
The Rock: Shadow objects of made asphalt. They are the dark crumbling inside of containers whose shape they hold
The Block: Turning the words into sound wave representations but retaining the readability.
Parks & Gardens
Kalmar Slottet Park
A long narrow park leading from the railway station to the castle, the park is filled with flowers, greenery and the occasional modern sculpture from the Art Museum. A small pond is home to fish and ducks.
Kalmar Slottet Park
Kattrumpan
A popular bathing spot in the city, with a sandy beach, a jetty and a children's play area, its location against the city walls keeps it well protected from the wind. Expect a lot of other people to join you at this spot if the weather is good.
Tjärhovet Utkiksplats
The Tjärhovet lookout spot is easy to miss. Just past a cafe and inside an industrial area, a small wooden building with benches and a roof sits on the water's edge. The hut gives keen birdwatchers a sheltered place to gaze out over the water and take in the hundreds of birds in the air, land and water nearby.
Tjärhovet Utkiksplats
Birds of Tjärhovet Utkiksplats
One item of note, easily seen from the lookout, is the small island fortress just off the coast, home to many nesting birds.
Gamla Kyrkogården
In use from the 13th century, when the Church was destroyed and rebuilt in Kvarnholmen, the cemetery remained in place and services are occasionally held on its grounds. It was still in use as a cemetery until the 19th century.
Gamla Kyrkogården
The oldest surviving tombstone is from the 14th century, and a statue of St Kristoffer, patron saint of Travellers, is still visible. St Kristoffer was a vital saint to Kalmar, a busy international trading port.
Södra Kyrkogården
Södra Kyrkogården
The Southern Cemetery, running along the water facing the castle, was constructed in 1863 and holds 10,800 graves. A chapel sits in the centre of the grounds, and a few plots are still available for use.
Restaurants & Bars
Kaffe Triberg
Facing Espresso house, Kaffe Triberg has a limited online presence but serves delicious coffee.
Latte Art at Kaffe Triborg
You sit on wooden benches, and there is a great deal of concrete in the construction.
Kalmar Slott Cafe
A blending of medieval and hipster, this cafe in the castle offers food and refreshments at reasonable prices.
Lunch at Kalmar Slott Cafe
Lunch is a typical Swedish approach of a limited menu of regularly changing items. The food was tasty, and the service was excellent.