12 Cities in 12 Months

Days are identified by Roman numerals. The city has a strong resonance with Rom, the history of repeated attempts to align with the Hapsbergs and the Pope have given Vilnius an affinity from Italy as well as this there is a stronger Russian influence than I have seen in the other Baltic states, they have a soviet influence, but less of the historic Russian.

The city is quite small, easy to walk almost everywhere. The architecture is outstanding, majestic even, which is a bit surprising as it was generally not a Kingdom.

Day 1:

Day 1 was travel. I headed to the airport at 4 and had an hour at the bar waiting. I then flew half an hour in the wrong direction to Copenhagen where I had a two hour wait to the flight to Vilnius.

I had a genuinely terrible burger at the Irish bar in Copenhagen and a lukewarm pasta at a pasta kiosk as an alternative. Disappointed with the food, i browsed the shops and impulse bought a pair of Marshall noice cancelling headphones. Then stopped in a wine bar for a glass of Boom Boom to to set them up. Really excellent, not sure how I’ve never tried them before!

They were ideal for the tiny plane I was on as the engine was extremely loud. I didn’t realise there was a time difference, so thinking i had two hours to kill I ordered two glasses of wine, 30minutes later as we were preparing to land, the second went unopened into my bag.

The airport is pretty small, and reminds me of Morocco airport for some reason. The taxi to the hotel was only about 10 minutes and cost ten euros. Though he was offended I asked up front for the cost.

The hotel was fine pretty basic, but clean and a fantastic location.

Day 2:

I was up late for the location, but early for my internal clock and headed out of the hotel, past the “easter egg” statue and found a cafe for a large but mediocre coffee.

I headed along the main roads, past the Museum of Illusions as it is open late and I planned to go one evening and headed to the Art Museum. I passed some great squares and churches with gold highlights.

The art museum is focused don classical Lithuanian art, spread over a few floors but with a nice linear approach. It is not incredible, the works are clearly not the great masters, but it is a local focus on ht city artists and history and in a lot of ways that is more valuable.

Finished at he museum, I headed to a nearby courtyard for a cheeky pint and to look at the fountain they had.

After refueling, I walked down the Literary street, a famous landmark where plaques adorn the walks. Its cute, but needs a bit more too it to really feel it as a destination.

I stopped for lunch at an underground cavern, having some stroganoff, which was good, but slow. After lunch, I walked around for a while, loosely heading to Užupis, the old town, whilst small, it has an angel watching over it and the constitution on silver plates in a dozen languages along the wall in the town.

I chilled out in a dive bar for a while watching the football. From Old town, I went to the park and climbed up to the Three Crosses, a monument that has been rebuild in various materials over the years, but is always three large crosses.

The hill gives a good view over the city, not as good as the castle, but that is closed for renovations as the hill it is on is collapsing.

From there, I did some exploring and spent half an hour waiting in an abandoned courtyard for enough people to battle a legendary Pokemon. There were never enough, but I met a couple of locals.

By this point, it as time for dinner, Trip Advisor had pinpointed the best restaurant in town, but when I got there was was closing, despite the hours saying it was open till 11pm. So i walked down the road to a nearby Italian for Calzone, a huge pile of garlic bread that was supposed to be a starter and was served with the main and far too much wine, all the while chatting to a local on Tinder.

After dinner, as I was enjoying my chat, i stopped in a comfy bar for more wine and more Tinder. Bu the time I got back to the hotel it was quite late and I was quite tipsy and decided it was a good idea to by a bottle of wine from reception, a bottle i never even opened.

Day 3:

The next day was a very late start, I did not get out of the hotel till 12:10. I finally headed out and walked up the main street to fund lunch, a very traditional and excellent restaurant where I had a big pile of meat. The playlist was, as the kids say, “lit fam”

I then went to the museum of applied design, good but small. Exhibits of children and women’s clothes, furniture and object d’art, a mix of Scandi and Soviet influence well worth the two euros admission fee, but it was probably only 45 minutes of museum.

The next museum was the National Museum of Lithuania, quite a bit of refurbishment going on so a wing was inaccessible, but there is a lot of early history, weapons, armour and a flights worth of crossbow bolts heads. First time I’ve seen them displayed in such quantity.

I then took a break in an outdoor cafe and my Tinder friend recommended my next museum.

I walked over the river to the Technology Museum, located in a power station. I only had 45 minutes to see as much of it as I could as it was closing, but it was a good one. A lot of interactive exhibits, like a ball throwing game where you were glasses that adjust your vision and you see how quickly you adapt and are then unable to aim properly when they are removed.

Strangely a couple were having their wedding photos done at the Turbine Hall, with their photographer, and assistant and some lighting. It was a peculiar choice.

Finished at the museum, I sat by the river with an accidental fruit beer for a while watching the kayaks go by.

I then headed to the Grand Duke’s Palace. Lithuania has only ever had one King, otherwise it has been a Grand Duchy. Strangely at one time, four brothers, the Jagietlonia Dynasty, ruled Lithuania, Poland, Bohemia and Hungary.

The museum’s the largest I had been into in Lithuania and it covered a variety of subjects, but is focused on the Ducal Dynasties. There is also an observation tower on the fourth floor with great views over the city. Well worth a visit.

I stopped at a bar for a beer and to watch the end of the World Cup match. Whilst there, but penal recommended a restaurant called La Boheme, it was a fantastic choice, a cheese soufflé that was incredible, peppered steak and creme brûlée. I felt somewhat judged by the waitress who was keeping count of my one ‘a third one’ she asked? but they were only 125ml.

Following dinner, I headed to a bit of a dive bar to see the end of the Germany vs. Sweden game and saw the Germans pull ahead in the final few minutes, meaning we’d likely see and England Sweden game in the next round.

I spent the rest of the evening at the hotel chatting to my new friend and watching terrible music videos on the local channels.

Day 4:

I once again woke up late, checked out at almost exactly 11. The time difference is hard to get used to for just a weekend.

I stopped for coffee and went down to see the gates of dawn, an archway in the old town with a small chapel above it.

I only had 45 minutes before i needed to head to the airport and so I sat in a fafe in a courtyard with a beer and watched the rain.

The Uber was a small ford, old and very different from the official taxis, and his profile said he was a very active conversationalist, but he said nothing for the journey. exactly what I was looking for on the way back home.

Going through security was very easy and I could have had another drink in town, maybe seen one las museum rather than having a full two hours in the airport.

Returning to Vilnius

Due to speaking at Agile Lithuania, I returned to Vilnius, one of the cities I'd visited as part of my 12 Cities in 12 Months tour. I took the time to visit some of the places I had not seen on my last visit to this beautiful Balkan city.

Sights & Culture

Vilnius Cathedral

One of the most striking buildings in the city, at the edge of Old Town and start of new and sitting in the shadow of both Gedemenes Tower and the Grand Dukes residence, Vilnius Cathedral is an excellent starting point for any walking tour of the City. The white buildings and round tower are memorable, though give more of an impression of a Roman temple than a traditional church.

St Anne's

Gedemenes castle

Originally built in the 13th Century from wood, Gedemenes Tower is in a prime strategic position giving views over the city and the river. The climb up is being improved with a new walkway and the promise of a Funicular soon.

The castle itself has a couple of floors showcasing videos and some weaponry, but it is the view that makes it worth the entrance fee.

TV tower

The TV Tower sits outside the main city, and has an 11 euro entrance fee. A fast elevator up to the viewing floor takes you to a cicular platform, similar to every other TV Tower you'll visit.

There is a slowly rotating outer band on which the tables are set for the restaurant so over the course of perhaps forty-five minutes you see the full circle. Heading there at key meal times will be busy, but out of lunch hour it seemed reasonable with only a short wait for a table.

In cloudy weather several of the sights cannot be seen, but it is claimed on a good day you can even see as far as Trakai Island Castle. The glass needs cleaning but how that is even possible remains unclear.

The view is good, but only really for about fifty degrees because that is when it faces the city, the rest of the time you are looking more over wilderness.

Saint Parasceve Orthodox Church

Constructed in pastel hues, the Orthodox Church stands out against the more ornate churches and stark soviet brutalism. In addition, it is fronted by a small market of tourist goods.

Pranciskonu Rumai

Museums & Galleries

Valstybinis Vilniaus Gaono žydų muziejus

The Vilna Gaon State Jewish Museum is an old building that has been heavily converted inside and gives a spacious and light filled impression.

for some reason, it was free during my visit, the normal entry price is 4 EUR, and is well worth it. The Museum is closed on a Saturday for Sabbath.

As well as the Museum, there is a central lecture hall/theatre space used regularly.

Lithuania is one of main Jewish cultural centres, and has been for centuries, there is a strong sense of Jewish identity in the city, and Lithuanian Yiddish became the foundation for Yiddish literature in Europe.

On the first floor, the space is used for a donation of artwork of Samuel Bak, a Lithuanian Jew and Artist from the second World War.

Scattered around the first floor, there are also a series of sculptures. Some quite strange.

There is also a series of long posters on Jewish life in Lithuania over the centuries leading up to the Second World War.

Through a fire door, there is a walkthrough for the Holocaust victims. During this walk you carry a stone in remembrance.

The top floor holds older Jewish art, and objects Mostly done by litvaks, the Orthodox Lithuanian Jews.

Finally, there was a temporary exhibit, Bartosz Fratczak's (non)-existence. 4 years finding abandoned Jewish sites in Lithuania and documenting them. Highlighting the tragic impact the Holocaust had on the Lithuanian Jewish population.

Vilnius Museum of Illusions

In the centre of town, the Vilnius Museum of Illusions offers a quite expensive chance to see a selection of optical illusions. The illusions are all interactive and there are a number of super-helpful staff on hand to explain or help demonstrate.

Contemporary Art Centre

The Contemporary Art Centre is also an art house cinema, and I watched part III of La Flor, a 15h Spanish film about female assassins. Aside from the cinema, the exhibitions are good, the venue is a nice open space, and not cluttered. Several large rooms contain the collections and a small library is available for use.

Parks & Gardens

Jurgos Ivanauskaitės skveras

Near the Comfort Hotel is a small square used by locals, but dominated by a chiseled stone cat statue, with a simple carved smiling face.

Aukojimas

Restaurants & Bars

Bon chop

A fantastic, though peculiar restaurant. Bon Chop is on one of the major streets and offers a chiller of meats to select from which is then cooked perfectly to your specification.

Be warned, two small dogs also call the place home.

Time

The restaurant in the Comfort Hotel is surprisingly good, excellent even. The menu is fairly limited, but the costs are reasonable given the quality. The service is attentive and the food is well presented and delicious.

Vilnius