After a further drive, we climbed aboard a flat bottomed boat and sailed along the lake toward La Fortuna and the volcano. The lake is dammed at one end and used as a hydroelectric plant which provide 50% of Cost Rica’s power.

Once we disembarked and got our bags out of the pile at the rear of the boat, it was one final bus ride to the hotel, which was about 10 minutes outside of La Fortuna town. We dropped our bags and took the bus back to town for some pizza in a large canteen style restaurant and to book our various tours for our La Fortuna stay.

Once back at the hotel, a few of us decided to go to the nearby La Fortuna waterfall; theoretically a short walk from the hotel. That description was a bit deceptive, it was a solid hours walk in high humidity with much of it being uphill. 

When we finally arrived, we had a 500 step decent to reach the waterfall. Which was spectacular. You can swim near it, but the power of the falls is enough that you shouldn’t get too close, in fact even if you wanted to it is quite hard.

On the other side of the area is a small calm pool. Like the waterfall the water is extremely cold, but dozens of small fish swim nearby.

We decided, after climbing the 500 steps back to the top that a taxi back was preferable to a further 4k walk.

It was an eventful drive, as the driver nearly hit a dog that ran out. We think he only even slowed because we all shouted in alarm.

It was looking unlikely for the evening trip to the hot springs due to the weather, heavy rain and lightning. Fortunately, it finally cleared up shortly before we were due to cancel. We piled into the bus again and headed off.

It was an odd experience when we arrived, 15 people taking off their outer clothing on a roadside to get ready to swim is strange.

The spring are not what you expect from the description. Found under a bridge, it is a strange man-made place, clearly a run off for the river. The water is heated by the volcano however, despite the peculiar location. There is no formal access, you are climbing across rocks and down rubble.

We were there a couple of hours and shared two bottles of wine between three of us. The pressure was quite high from the run off but it was a relaxing experience.

We stopped for sandwich on the way back from a small store as we had had no food.

Day 2

Originally, it was going to be a 7am collection but we found out that the collection would be at 9:30 which make us all happy.

Breakfast was a huge plate of rice and beans, hot dogs in tomato sauce, fried banana and scrambled eggs. Unfortunately, it was an outside canteen and was inundated with flying ants, which made it s somewhat frustrating meal.

Gravity Falls

“The experience was adrenaline fuelled, by the end we were all twitching with nervous energy.”

We were collected in a beautiful SUV and headed off to the Gravity Falls. We stopped a short distance away and transferred to a much older Jeep for the final stretch of off road driving, once some cows let us pass. After a short but thorough inclination and getting kitted up with all the safety gear, we started rappelling 45 meter down a slick wall next to a huge waterfall. A dozen meters from the bottom, we let go of everything, pushed off and splashed into the icy water.

It was here I discovered my footwear was not suitable, and it came apart when I hit the water. Waddling out of the cold onto the rocks, one sandal flapping uselessly from my ankle.

Following that startling start, there were a series of waterfall jumps, each steadily more challenging. Early into it, one of the other jumpers helped by tying my shoes together, to give a basic sole to stand on to protect from sharp rocks.

The most terrifying of the jumps was the technical jump, where you had to hit a special point or hit the rocks. Hard.

Towards the end we did a Tarzan swig into a lake, followed by a seven meter jump into a waterfall edged lake. If you had the climbing skills, you could get back to the top of that cliff for another jump.

After a beer or two at the end, we jumped back in the jeep and headed for lunch and to meet those from the group who chose more sedate ways to spend the morning. Once again, rice, beans and meat, but exactly what we all needed. The restaurant was next to a single car suspension bridge, over a wide canyon. We took the chance to get changed into cleaner and dryer clothing.

After lunch was done, we were dropped back at the hotel, with 1.5h before pickup to go cooking. I dashed into town to collect a replacement pair of shoes as my sandals did not fit the bill as we had rafting coming up in a few days.

After a very quick shower, we were collected and taken out to an ecologically conscious animal refuge and restaurant where some of the team were learning salsa and some of us were learning to cook traditional food. The view from the restaurant is spectacular. The volcano dominates the scenery in front.

Once inside we were able to meet the macaw monkey, tiny little monkeys, who were fed marshmallows as a treat.

Following a traditional shot, we started to cook and learn to make a local salsa, picorina, a squash based vegetable stew and proper local tortillas. The myth goes, a girl is only ready to be married when she can make perfect tortillas that rise.

We finished, with some dinner and some dancing before heading back to our hotel, for an early night as it had been a long day and tomorrow was looking to be longer.

Day 3

Arenal Mountain Biking

The mountain bike tour started when we had disembarked from the boat.

We started with a tough uphill journey, which was hard work and showed I do not cycle nearly enough. It was about 20k all on gravel roads. They were a great tour group, one person in front, one at the back and followed by the van. So if there were problems or someone couldn’t continue they were there (A few people did use this option). They also supported with all the water you needed, as the temperature was very high.

The tour ended lakeside, facing the volcano with beers, watermelon and pineapples.

I noticed we only had about an hour and a half before collection for the horse riding and so I asked to be dropped at a nearby pizza place instead of the hotel so I could get some lunch. One of the guys from the tour joined me as he passed on half way back from town.

The pizza was good, jalapeños giving it a nice kick.

Horseback Riding

This was a longer transfer down some rough roads but we arrived at an old farmstead and stables. We were quickly geared up and paired with on horses. Mine was a mare called Tarzan.

The horses knew the routes we were to take well, but Tarzan had a mind of her own and would often choose a different route to get to the next point. She was also deeply stubborn and always eating. Some would say we made a good pair.

The most spectacular moment was on the slopes where we saw in full view the volcano and its clouded top.

Shortly after the volcano we dropped for a refreshing organic smoothie and tortilla with locally produced cheese at a restaurant which was still being built.

We then rode back downhill. Tarzan who had been eating for the whole break was much more biddable than before, and we even moved out of last place!

When we got back to the farmstead we were offered a home brewed “chilli shot” stored in and old coca cola bottle. They were amazed I said yes as it doesn’t seem to happen much and were very disappointed when I downed it, said it was good and clearly showed no ill effects from the spices. I even guessed may of the ingredients.

We returned to the hotel very briefly to pick up our clothes for the spa.

The spa was basically various pools at different temperatures, the main one being 32° and with a bar serving cocktails in pineapples. We spent around two hours there relaxing and using the crazy waterslides.

We at a buffet dinner at the spa restaurant, and I got a glass of two of a rather lovely Chenin Blanc before we headed back to the hotel to finish packing for the 3 day rafting adventure...