A Tog's Trek

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Belfast

Perhaps the most troubled city in the United Kingdom, the history of Belfast is written in conflict between the Protestant Unionists and the Catholic Republicans. The Europa hotel holds the distinction of being the most bombed hotel in the world, and the city is still divided in two be the Peace Line, though there is a commitment to remove the majority by 2023, little progress has been made.

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Sights & Culture

Solidarity Wall

One of a number of muraled walls in Belfast. This one expresses the Republican sympathies for other marginalised communities around the globe including the Palestinians, the Kurds and the Basques

Peace Wall

In total, covering 34km, the Peace Line or Peace Walls, divide the Protestant and Catholic sections of Belfast. These six-meter high walls were erected in 1969 as a temporary measure and persist to this day. In some stretches peoples, gardens run right up to the wall. The graffiti is ever-changing as locals and tourists add their mark. A favourite spot for enterprising taxi drivers doing tours is to stop on the wall, grab the can of spray paint from their vehicle and offer the passenger the chance to make their mark or photograph the driver doing it.

Clonard Monastery

Opened in 1911, and of French Gothic style, the Church is home to the Redemptionist sect.

Gates of Lanark Way

Lying between the Protestant Shankill Road and Catholic Falls and Springfield roads, Lanark Way has been one of the most dangerous intersections in Belfast. The automatic security gates in the Peace Wall still close every evening separating one side from the other, despite the decades of peace in Northern Ireland.

Memorial to World War I and II soldiers

Centreally located in the same block as City Hall, the Memorial has an almost Roman look to it, commemorating the brave soldiers of both world wars.

Albert Memorial Clock

Close to the river, and built in the 1860s to memorialise Prince Albert, whose statue adorns the monument, the Clock is a visible symbol of the Monarchy that has somehow stood through the Troubles.

The Salmon of Knowledge

A ceramic sculpture of a fish whose scales are made up of pictures and texts outlining the history of Belfast. A famous landmark for the city, sometimes just called ‘The Big Fish’

St Anne’s Cathedral

Near to the House of Zen, this Cathedral was consecrated in 1904, and has a war memorial facade to one side.

Beacon of Hope

Known more commonly, even by google, as Nuala with the Hula, (pronounced ‘Noola with the Hoola’), a fact the Sculptor Andy Scott finds hilarious, this sculpture stands proudly on the river’s edge by Queen’s Bridge. Originally to be a sculpture marking the spot of a multi-faith community building, the building itself was shelved as an idea but the steel sculpture was continued and has taken its memorable place on the skyline for about sixteen years now. Worth walking along the river to take a look at ‘the thing with the ring’

Glass of Thrones

All along the easter edge of the river, stained glass ‘posters’ stand showing scenes from Game of Thrones. Follow them far anough and you’ll find one with its own Iron Throne to sit in.

The Great Light

The Great Light is one of the largest optics of its kind ever built, It weighs about ten tonnes and is seven metres tall. The light is a unique object to Belfast and produces one of the strongest beams of light of any lighthouse.

The Samson & Goliath Cranes

Part of one of the largest drydocks in the world, operated by Harland & Wolff, the two huge cranes are visible from a surprising distance and are two of the most recognisable symbols of Belfast.


Museums & Galleries

Eileen Hickey Irish Republican History Museum

Started by Eileen Hickey and maintained by her family, this small museum focuses on the plight of Republican prisoners under the British. Collections of items crafted by prisoners, news reports, weapons, uniforms and a replica cell.

Titanic Belfast

More famous perhaps for sailing from Southampton, the Titanic was built in Belfast. The museum is huge and behind it, is a floorplan drawn out in steel beams.

The museum requires pre-purchase of tickets, though this can be done in the lobby of the museum by phone, though you may have a short wait. The ticket gives you access to the Titanic Museum and the nearby SS Nomadic.

Heavy on reading and watching screens, the museum does have replica rooms with holographic projections of characters who could have been on the boat. One section talks through the real-life experiences of some of the handful of survivors. Southampton’s Titanic experience is significantly smaller and lacks the pizazz but is perhaps just as contentful.

A cinema shows a disappointingly short looping film of divers exploring the wreck, and a short ‘ride’ is available showing some of the conditions workers would endure.

Slipways

Behind the Titanic Museum, the steel pillars stand, marking the shape and scale of the Titanic.

SS Nomadic

The last remaining White Star Line ship in the world, in dry dock a short distance from the Titanic Museum, this sister ship to the Titanic has been restored and opened to visitors to explore. Surprisingly small, its still worth a visit if you’re doing the Titanic Museum.


Restaurants & Bars

Wholly Ground Coffee House

Loving a good pun, we stopped into this coffee shop in the grounds of a church. The Latte was good, but we didn’t try much else.

Villa Italia

A huge Italian restaurant next to Holohan’s Pantry, we stopped in when we could not get a table and were not disapointed. The calzone was great and massive. The service was fast and friendly.

Holohan's Pantry

One of the most highly regarded restaurants offering traditional Irish food, Holohan’s is a small place of perhaps a dozen tables. The Chicken, Mushroom & Tarragon Pan Boxty was sublime.

Tedfords Kitchen

With lovely views over the river, Tedford’s offers very good food for reasonable prices in a calm setting. Perhaps more suited to cosy evenings than bright summer sun in decor, the staff were wonderful.

House of Zen

A fantastic and stylish Chinese restaurant in Belfast, the food was exceptional.


Shoppping

St George's Market

A 19th-century market mixing food, art, second-hand goods and handicrafts. Generally busy, and the queues for the food stalls can be long, it is worth going.