Reykjavík, the vibrant capital of Iceland, is a city where modernity meets tradition in the most captivating ways. As the northernmost capital in the world, it offers a unique blend of natural beauty and urban sophistication. From its colourful streets lined with charming houses and cutting-edge architecture to its thriving arts scene and rich cultural heritage, Reykjavík pulses with energy and creativity. Whether you're exploring its bustling markets, relaxing in its geothermal pools, or marvelling at the stunning views from Hallgrimskirkja, Reykjavík invites you to discover its many facets. Each corner of this dynamic city tells a story, offering a perfect introduction to the wonders of Iceland.

As part of my challange to mysef to visit Twelve Cities in Twelve months I ended with Reykjavik and the hopes to see the northern lights.

Reykjavik is a surprisingly busy city on the west coast of Iceland. Surrounded by black volcanic stone and yellow grass the city is striking. Arctic winds blow in from the coast, and Iceland is the third windiest place in the world. Houses are generally low with sloped roofs to avoid the ever present wind. 

The city is full of tourists, Iceland's niche as a stopover between Europe and the US is working well for it in terms of bringing people in. 

The marina is full of fish restaurants, tours and fishing boats, and the centre of town is primarily a single road full of shops (many selling cold weather gear).

The outsides are bleak, but inside the restaurants and shops, low lighting and warm woods make you feel welcomed. 

There is something still quite fishery about Iceland. The weather, the rain, the coast. It's not a nation of sailors like the UK or Scandinavia but of people who spend their lives closer to home. There is still a wildness to it.

Day 1: 

The day before my flight, I had to contact SAS by phone because they’d changed my flights and I’d gone from a 1 hour layover in Copenhagen to twenty five hours there… They were very helpful, and moved me to a flight via Stockholm, but it did mean rather than arriving at 11am I was getting to Reykjavik at 15:30. Still much better than the next day, and a later start, so I headed out via Stockholm. For some reason the GPS on my phone was refusing to connect the whole time I was in Stockholm airport, which made me very aware of how much I had come to depend on my phone for navigation. Being told exactly where I am makes it very simple to know where to go. Arlanda airport is quite large, especially compared to Landvetter, but there was a nice Gastropub near the gate where I had a good burger and a beer before the flight to Iceland.

Icelandic Air is nice, good seats and they provide various facts on the entertainment screens about Iceland, such as it being the third most windy place in the world. We landed smoothly, though at one point on the flight the turbulence was so bad there was screaming from children. I took the bus into town, something you can arrange on the plane with the flight attendants, which is a nice time saver. 

The terrain is harsh, but beautiful, coming into the city, there is yellow grass everywhere, with volcanic black stone breaking through the ground in various places. It is wildly different from the wildness of Sweden with its granite and evergreens.

As I was quite late getting to the city, I knew I wouldn't be able to do any museums, as they closed between five and six, so I walked up from the bus terminal to find the famous Hallgrimskirkja. On my way, I ended up in the grounds of the Einar Jónsson Museum, with a series of statues.

Hallgrimskirkja is iconic, looming up over the landscape, with a statue of famed explorer Leif Eiríksson at the front. The area is full of tourists, all of us taking the same shots. Its an unusual looking church, almost mathematical in its lines. 

From there, I walked a short way to ROK bar for a local beer and to warm up a bit. Even with my layers it was cold outside. After warming up, I headed down towards the coast past the main shopping streets and passed a late night tattoo parlour, where I realised why most places have opaque windows when I passed. Woman laying on the tattoo chair in hot pink panties getting a thigh tattoo done. Privacy seems less important in Iceland.

My destination was the Sunseeker statue on the waterfront, and it was a chance to get my tripod setup in a good location to get an evening HDR photo of the skyline and the Sunseeker. I was continually frustrated by other people wandering into my photo to have their picture taken, using a flash or otherwise preventing the shots I needed. With perseverance, I finally got the photo I had been trying for.

Dinner was at the Old Iceland restaurant, I arrived just in time to get a small table at the back before it filled up, and had a fish soup to start and an excellent lamb main. It was a suburb meal with some very good wine.

There are a great deal of Americans and Canadian tourists in Iceland due to the various deals they are offering on flights and on being a free connection point. Its having a significant impact on their economy but they are making every effort to minimise the impact on the ecology.

I found the bus stop I needed to get to my hotel, directly outside the market-hall, so I could have a swift beer whilst waiting for the bus to arrive as they are regular but infrequent. There is an easy to use app to buy tickets, even in Icelandic its functions are fairly obvious.

Day 2: 

The hotel was fairly basic but nicely furnished. Breakfast was in the basement and was a traditional continental breakfast, but it was a good start to the day. I ended up in reception for about an hour waiting for the bus to come and collect me for my tour, which is always the risk. 

The tour was taking me around the famous Golden Circle of Iceland, and our first point was stopping for coffee at Hveragerði and getting snacks for the road. On route we passed through an area of geothermal energy collection, and the whole area smelled of sulphur. Apparently, its common for the shower water to smell as well on occasion as so much of Iceland is geothermic. 

I picked up some sandwiches for lunch if needed and a coffee and we waited on the bus for the stragglers. There were about 14 of us in the bus, with every seat filled. We then drove about forty minutes to Kerid Crater. No one is sure what has cause it, a meteor impact or the collapse of a pocket of rock, but in any case, the colours of the lake, grass and rocks are remarkable. The weather was poor and the light flat, so capturing it as it best was impossible, but I walked around the full width of the crater, the wind fiercely snapping at my coat. By the time I got back on the bus, I was cold and soaking wet from the rain.

Our next stop was Faxi waterfall, a wide, but not too tall drop at the bend in a river. Viewing can be done from the slope overlooking it, but I walked down to the river edge to get a closer view, though it was a slippery time in the mud getting there and back.

We then went on to the second waterfall of the trip, the impressive and famous Gullfoss Falls. There was a time that the British tried to turn this waterfall into a hydroelectric damn, but the owner and later his daughter refused to sell their ‘friend’ the daughter going so far as to threaten suicide if they attempted to build. The falls are impressive and they way they have cut into the rock to form canyons is amazing. As a popular destination, there are a lot of tourists there, even in the relative ‘off’ season of October. You can then climb some stairs and get a view from above the falls from a small cliff face.

On route to the Gyser, we stopped briefly to see some Icelandic horses. They are a special breed, and if they leave Iceland they can never return as there is little to protect the local horses immune systems from common diseases. They also have to more ‘walks’ than other horses, a faster trot than trotting, that is smoother over the broken ground of Iceland and a faster gallop,

We then stopped for lunch and a chance to see the Geysir, one of the most famous things to do in Iceland. We had an hour, which we were told was plenty to have lunch and see the Geysir. I was more doubtful than the others on the tour and so started with the Geysir, knowing I had a sandwich in my bag for emergencies. 

The Geysir erupts approximately every five minutes, and I’ve never before been so conscious of how heavy my camera is when it is up, finger on the trigger waiting for the eruption. I missed the first one as I’d taken the weight off, and it is a fast eruption. I caught the second and third. They’re not as tall as you expect from seeing these things on television, but its still an impressive sight. Around the area are a number of hot pools of geothermically heated water and some beautiful landscapes.

The queue at the canteen was huge, and I’d not manage to get anything and eat it in the time I had left, so I found a small cafe and got a drink and a donut and ate my sandwich. Not the most healthy or filling choice, but better than missing the Geysir & Hot Springs.

At this point, I got the notification that my northern lights tour that evening had been cancelled due to the cloud cover and rain. It didn't come as a surprise, but it was still disappointing. It was rescheduled for the following day, and I was able to change the collection to the centre of town so I didn't have to get back to my hotel for pickup. 

We stopped for Ice Cream at this point at a local cooperative called Efstidalur, where you could see the cows who provided the ice cream through the window of the parlour into the cow shed. Its a little strange and shortly after we arrived the place was inundated with a bus full of school children.

Our final stop on the tour was Thingvellir National Park, where we walked up the escarpment through the connection point of the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. 

In the dim past, the Thing was held here, the gathering of locals for the making of laws and judgement. It overlooks a series of rivers and the stone jutting up from the ground has an almost bluish cast to it in the right light.

We then returned to Reykjavik and I was dropped in the centre of town to explore. I ended up in a cold weather store shop and picked up a set of Icelandic wool socks which were super cosy to wear and a pair of cold weather trousers a little like snowboarding trousers but more suited for walking. I then found out I could claim the tax back on them at the airport just by filling in a short part of the receipt, getting approximately 400 SEK back on my purchase. Iceland are doing all they can to make it easy and cost-effective to be a tourist.

I stopped into Brewdog for a beer or two after my day out in the wilds of Iceland, and ended up chatting to a pair of American guys who assumed initially I was local, and when I said I lived in Sweden were impressed with how good my English was. I decided not to explain any further. I was helped by a local however in choosing my final beer, who pointed out a local brewery option that was in partnership and it was a good call.

I’d identified a place that apparently did an incredible fish soup. Not normally a fan of either of those things, I walked over to it due to the rave reviews. It was more of a cafe however, and I wasn't in the mood for bar service, after my mediocre lunch. I wandered around a while before finding Reykjavik Fish, a restaurant offering a great Plokkir, a kind of fish and potato gratin served in a hot cast iron pan straight from the flames.

At this point I headed back on the bus to my hotel, but decided once I arrived that I fancied a drink or two before bed as it was still early and my hotel didn't have a bar, or a mini bar. I walked over the road to the pool hall, but it looked shut so instead went to the Hilton’s bar for a few glasses of red wine and to have the regrettable experience of listening to a terrible terrible man, that resulted in a somewhat over the top post to Facebook about him. 

Day 3: 

I had an early start to the day and skipped the provided breakfast to have a coffee and croissant in town. This was something of a mistake as the cafe had a very long wait due to an English school trip meeting there for the morning. 

Once I’d drunk my coffee, I headed up to the Settlement Museum, built over the ruins of an ancient longhouse. Originally by the ocean, the changing coastline has meant its now much more central. Whilst there is not a lot there, it has artefacts from the period and a lot of information on the history. 

I then explored a bit and went to the Listasafn Reykjavíkur, the Reykjavik art museum. It had some good displays, and is primarily modern art, but it is comparatively small, because it is three venues, the other two were a bit far out for my to go to. The building itself is great, high ceilings, whitewashed walls and dark floors. 

Sæta Svínið Gastropub was my next stop, recommended online for its platter of unusual Icelandic meats, consisting of whale, puffin, horse and char. They were all great, as was the dark lager to accompany it. Whale could almost be beef steak, though with a slight fish overtone. Puffin has a strong smokey flavour and was rather chewy, horse and char I had eaten before but both were well done. I felt somewhat guilty eating whale, though it is difficult to articulate coherently why that caused guilt when cow, horse, or chicken cause no such compunction.

After lunch, I walked down to the coast and wandered along the sea front and piers. I was tempted by taking one of the tours and going whale watching, but the final beer I had had at the pub put me too late for any of the session, which was disappointing.

I instead walked down past the Eve Online monument, with the names of thousands of players engraved on the metal of the plinth it stands on as the offices are in the next door building. An American mother and son had a conversation with me about the monument, as he’d wanted to see it and she had no idea what it was all about.

I then went to the whale museum, where models of all the different types of whales hung from the ceiling to give visitors the understanding of the various sizes and differences of the whales. Along with that, bones are in cases around the museum showing off things like a Narwhals horn. There is an excellent audio guide, without which it would be a little pointless as there is little else other than the bones and models.

Following the whale museum, I went to the Maritime Museum. Iceland is very much a fishing nation, rather than an exploring one and the museum reflects that. There is a great deal of information on the fishery industry, and there are rooms setup to reflect it. The rise of safety at sea is a key exhibit. Its interesting and a very different perspective from the typical Maritime museum you encounter.

Next door to the maritime museum is a local brewery and bar. I stopped in to try their beer and to decide where to head next. I decided against the nearby Saga museum about the Icelandic sagas as it did not have the best reviews and instead took the bus to the famous Icelandic Phallological  museum.

My expectation was that a museum dedicated to penises would be lighthearted and somewhat silly. Listening to the narration as I went around the small museum, it was strangely serious. The founder had been given a preserved penis as a joke by a colleague, which then became a running joke from all his friends until his wife had finally had enough and he was told to ‘get rid of all the penes.” Rather than throw them out, the founder instead created a museum for them, of which he was the curator. I learned that the only carnivores with no penis bone are humans and hyenas and that a number of people have offered their human penis (as there is none in the museum) on their deaths but so far they all remain healthy, but their letters of intent are on the walls.

I went to the nearby Restó for an early dinner, quiet, low lighting and an intimate setting made for a wonderful five course meal of spiced fish soup, wild goose (with a warning to check for buckshot), garlic sautéed scallops, a lamb dish and panna cotta.

I then met an old friend I had hiked through Nepal with and his wife, who he’d been engaged to when we’d been in Nepal, but had not come along. I had seen via facebook that he was also in Iceland and we managed to arrange an hour to catchup. Travel shrinks the world, but our communications do as well. 

I left Scott and his wife and headed to the collection point for my rescheduled northern lights tour. We were collected by Havar who talked us through some of the details on the lights, but set our expectations that this evening was still very cloudy and we were unlikely to find what we were searching for. He explained that it is the oxygen that makes the green colour and occasionally you will see a vibrant red from the nitrogen in the atmosphere. He drove us to two locations, only only briefly, and one for a little longer where we had Icelandic donuts and hot chocolate, and I setup my camera and tripod, but the cloud cover was heavy. I managed to get a shot of moonlight breaking through a distant part of the sky, but there was no visibility of the northern lights. Disheartened, we headed back into Reykavik.

I jumped off at one of the stops before my collection point as it was near the bus stop to my hotel, and ran into two people from the tour the day before who were heading up the hill hoping to see the lights. I let them know the forecast, but they tried anyway, whilst I took the bus back to the hotel.

Day 4: 

In order to get to the airport on time, I decided to book a taxi rather than take the bus that I’d originally intended as that would mean a 45 minute walk in the morning. Even with the taxi I was up at 6:45am, though did have time for breakfast before I was collected. The taxi is expensive, even by Swedish standards, but made for a very easy collection. 

I dropped off my receipt for my tax rebate and was told In approximately three weeks it would be credited to my account. I checked in and settled into Joe & the Juice for a coffee whilst I waited. I was there for a while as the flight was delayed by 45 minutes, but the time was made back on the flight so I had no issues with my connection.

I ate dinner in Landvetter airport in Gothenburg before leaving the airport. It was my final trip on this adventure and it seemed somehow appropriate to have my last meal whilst still technically travelling. I lingered over a last glass of wine not quite wanting to admit the trip was over. When I finally went through customs and got back to Gothenburg I stopped in my local pub for a couple of beers to think about everything I’d done before heading home.

When I got back to my flat, I found I had been locked out. The plumber who had come round to service all the radiators had locked both locks, and I don’t carry the key for the second. I emailed my landlord, lacking her phone number and went back to my local to hope for a reply. When none was forthcoming, I booked into a hotel room near the office. My 12 cities trip ended with a 13th hotel stay. One in my home town.

Hallgrimskirkja

Hallgrimskirkja is not just a church but a defining symbol of Iceland itself. This towering structure dominates Reykjavik's skyline with its unique design, inspired by the basalt lava flows of Iceland's volcanic landscape. The church's stark, modernist exterior contrasts beautifully with the soft light and simple decor of its interior. Climbing to the top of the tower, you are rewarded with panoramic views of the city and beyond, a sight that truly encapsulates the rugged beauty of Iceland. Hallgrimskirkja stands as a testament to both the country’s natural wonders and its architectural ingenuity.

Leif Eriksson Monument

Gifted by the United States, the Leif Eriksson Monument commemorates the Norse explorer believed to be the first European to set foot in North America. The statue stands proudly in front of Hallgrimskirkja, its strong, stoic presence a tribute to Iceland’s adventurous spirit. Leif Eriksson's legacy is deeply intertwined with Icelandic history and culture, and this monument serves as a reminder of the country's rich heritage of exploration and discovery.

Rainbow Street

Rainbow Street is a vibrant, colourful pathway that leads up to Hallgrimskirkja, adding a splash of joy to Reykjavik’s cityscape. This new addition since my last visit has quickly become a beloved spot for both locals and tourists, providing a cheerful and photogenic walk. The bright, rainbow-coloured stripes paint a path that contrasts wonderfully with the traditional architecture of the surrounding buildings, symbolising Reykjavik's blend of history and modernity.

Harpa Concert Hall and Conference Centre

Harpa stands as a beacon of contemporary architecture on Reykjavik's waterfront. Its striking glass facade, designed to reflect and refract the natural light, creates a dazzling display of colour and geometry. Inside, Harpa is a cultural hub, hosting a variety of concerts, conferences, and events. The building itself is a work of art, with its angular design and intricate lattice of windows offering views of the harbour and the mountains beyond. Harpa is not just a venue but an experience, capturing the essence of Icelandic creativity and innovation.

Alþingishúsið

Alþingishúsið, the site of Iceland's parliament, stands near the city hall and is steeped in political history. The surrounding square frequently becomes a focal point for civic activities and climate protests, reflecting the active engagement of Iceland's citizens in global and local issues. The building's historic architecture provides a stark contrast to the passionate, modern movements that often gather outside its doors, creating a dynamic interplay between past and present.

The Unknown Bureaucrat

The Unknown Bureaucrat is a fascinating statue that captures the essence of the everyday office worker with a touch of humour and irony. This bronze sculpture, depicting a man with a large, featureless stone where his head should be, is a whimsical yet poignant commentary on the anonymity of bureaucratic life. It's a piece that invites reflection and smiles in equal measure, blending art with social observation.

Kvernufoss

Kvernufoss is perhaps one of Iceland's best-kept secrets, offering a secluded experience away from the usual tourist trails. Hidden away in a canyon, this waterfall allows you to walk behind its cascading waters, providing a unique and intimate encounter with nature. The hike to Kvernufoss is a serene journey through untouched landscapes, culminating in the breathtaking sight of the waterfall. It's a hidden gem that showcases Iceland's raw and unspoiled beauty.

Skógafoss

Skógafoss is a majestic, wide waterfall that has captured the imaginations of many, even featuring in the TV series "Vikings." The powerful flow of water creates a constant mist, often resulting in vivid rainbows on sunny days. Visitors can get remarkably close to the base of the waterfall, feeling the sheer power of nature. Despite its popularity and the crowds it attracts, Skógafoss retains a sense of awe-inspiring grandeur that is quintessentially Icelandic.

Eyjafjallajökull

Eyjafjallajökull, once the site of a significant volcanic eruption, now offers a more tranquil scene with a café facing its remnants. The 2010 eruption famously disrupted air travel across Europe, but today the area serves as a reminder of nature's unpredictable power. The café provides a perfect spot to reflect on the juxtaposition of tranquility and the latent energy that defines Iceland's volcanic landscape.

Seljalandsfoss

Seljalandsfoss is a towering waterfall known for the unique experience of walking behind the cascade. The path takes you through a curtain of water, immersing you in the spray and the sounds of the rushing falls. It's an exhilarating experience, though be prepared to get soaked. The lush green surroundings and the dramatic drop make Seljalandsfoss a must-see destination, capturing the essence of Iceland's wild and untamed beauty.

Gljufrabui

Gljúfrabui is a hidden gem, nestled within a canyon that requires a bit of adventurous spirit to access. Balancing on stones and wading through a shallow stream, you emerge into a secluded area where the waterfall cascades down into a serene pool. This hidden waterfall offers a sense of discovery and intimacy with nature that few other places can match. It's an experience that feels like stepping into a secret, magical world.

Geysir

The geothermal area of Geysir is home to the famous hot spring that has lent its name to geysers worldwide. Although the original Geysir is now less active, its neighbour, Strokkur, erupts regularly, sending a column of boiling water high into the air. The area is a fascinating display of geothermal activity, with bubbling mud pots, steaming vents, and the occasional dramatic eruption, providing a glimpse into the volcanic forces that shape Iceland.

Gullfoss

Known as the "Golden Falls," Gullfoss is a powerful and majestic waterfall that captivates with its sheer volume and force. Despite its name, the waterfall is not yellow but derives its name from the golden hue often seen in its glacial waters. The two-tiered cascade plunges into a rugged canyon, creating a thundering spectacle that is both awe-inspiring and humbling. Gullfoss is a highlight of the Golden Circle and a testament to the raw beauty of Iceland's natural wonders.

Austurvöllur

Austurvöllur is a central park in Reykjavik, surrounded by historic buildings and buzzing with activity. It's a popular gathering place for locals and tourists alike, offering a green oasis in the heart of the city. The park is adorned with statues and benches, providing a perfect spot to relax and people-watch. The vibrant atmosphere of Austurvöllur reflects Reykjavik's blend of history and contemporary life, making it a lively and inviting space.

Kaffi Lækur

Located towards the suburbs, Kaffi Lækur is a cosy café with a welcoming vibe. It's a bit off the beaten path but well worth the trip. Their chorizo calzone is superb, and the carrot cake is a must-try. The café's laid-back atmosphere makes it a perfect spot to unwind, and the fast service is impressive, even for large groups. Kaffi Lækur offers a slice of local life and comfort, making it a delightful place to visit.

Potturinn og Pannan

At Potturinn og Pannan, you'll find some of the best lamb I’ve ever tasted, cooked to perfection and rich in flavour. The menu also features delicious deep-fried camembert, making for a decadent and satisfying meal. The restaurant’s cosy ambiance and excellent service add to the dining experience, making it a highlight of any trip to Reykjavik.

BrewDog Reykjavik

BrewDog Reykjavik offers a fantastic vibe with its downstairs bar setting. The atmosphere is relaxed yet vibrant, making it a great spot to enjoy a craft beer and a hearty burger. BrewDog's commitment to quality is evident in their food and drink offerings, creating a space where you can unwind and enjoy the best of Reykjavik's culinary scene.

Íslenski barinn

Íslenski Barinn is famous for its reindeer burgers, offering a unique taste of Icelandic cuisine. The restaurant prides itself on using local ingredients, providing a true farm-to-table experience. The rustic decor and friendly staff create a warm and inviting atmosphere, making it a must-visit for anyone looking to sample traditional Icelandic dishes.

Borg29 mathöll

Borg29 Mathöll is a bustling food hall with a wide range of options, perfect for those who want to sample a variety of flavours. From gourmet burgers to fresh seafood, there's something for everyone. The calzone here is exceptionally good, and the lively environment makes it a great place to grab a meal with friends

Efstidalur II

As part of the tour, we stopped at Efstidalur II, which I’d stopped at on my first visit to Iceland as well. A high-end ice-cream store with working farm, where you can meet the cows who contributed to the ice cream you’re eating.

Reykjavik is the capital of Iceland and as such is the central hub for shopping. Whilst not London or New York you’ll find everything you need and with the tax rebates, even at Icelandic prices it can be a good place to buy premium outdoors gear.

Sky Lagoon

Sky Lagoon offers a potentially better experience than the Blue Lagoon, and you don’t need special conditioner for your hair. The highlight is the incredible glass wall in the sauna, providing stunning views of the surrounding landscape while you relax.

Airport Transfer

During the airport transfer, you change at BSI for the shuttle. There was a bit of confusion on our trip with 2 people missing initially, and then another 2 people went missing, adding some unexpected excitement to the journey.

Road 1

Road 1 circles the entire island, providing access to numerous petrol stations along the way. There's a charming tradition of leaving offerings of sweets to the Hidden People (elves) at various spots to help guarantee good weather and good luck, adding a touch of local folklore to your travels.